Cathedrals, café culture and cabbages - a whistle-stop tour of Diocletian’s Palace

‘’If you could show the cabbage that I planted with my own hands to your emperor, he definitely wouldn’t dare suggest that I replace the peace and happiness of this place with the storms of a never-satisfied greed’’.

These were the words of Emperor Diocletian to Emperor Maximilian, declining to come out of retirement and leave his palace, Diocletian’s Palace, located in modern day Split. 

Diocletian abdicated on May 1st 305AD, having been emperor for 20 years. By the age of 60, he had restructured the way the Roman Empire was governed by establishing the Tetrarchy, a system in which there were 4 rulers over the sprawling empire. 

To many, he is best known for his residence in Split, Croatia. Located just metres away from the seafront, Diocletian’s Palace is one of the best-known landmarks of Split, recognised by its fortress-like façade and famous cathedral tower.

The Palace

The building itself is rectangular, approximately 215 m x 180 m, with 4 large towers at the corners. The palace resembles a fortress - about half was Diocletian’s personal residence and the rest was for the military garrison - and the remains are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, being the world’s most complete remains of a Roman palace.  

The palace was built from white stone from Brač island, marble imported from Italy and Greece, and the columns and 12 sphinxes are from Egypt. This spectacular building was built 6km away from the ancient capital of the province of Dalmatia, Salona, which was one of the largest cities of the Roman empire (home to 60,000 people at the time). 

Today, Diocletian’s Palace houses 220 buildings, shops, cafes, restaurants and homes within its walls, and feels like a bustling town itself, nestled in the heart of busy Split. 

Peristil Square

The Peristil Square is likely what comes to mind if you picture Diocletian’s Palace, with its imposing Corinthian columns and accessible passage to the cellars beneath. The cathedral also stands in this busy square. Perisitil Square is actually used as a venue for concerts and exhibitions today, and guided tours often begin here too. You’ll notice some cafes and restaurants lining the square - make sure to get a picture here!

Basements 

The basements are one of the best preserved parts of the palace, and the layout actually almost exactly mirrors the rooms of the palace above. Organised excavations of the basement started in the mid 19th century, and this part of the residence originally provided shelter during 7th century turbulence in the city. They were also used by Split’s merchants as storage for cargo, being so close to the harbour. 

The basements are often lined with market stalls, however they were empty when I visited. I walked through the central open passage, via Peristil Square, but it is possible to visit the other basement rooms if you purchase a ticket and they’re open to tourists. 

For Game of Thrones fans, I’ve heard some scenes were filmed in these basements! 

Cathedral of Saint Domnius 

Did you know, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius has the tallest bell tower in Dalmatia? Today it’s used for masses, but originally it was constructed as Emperor Diocletian’s tomb, where he was buried between 316AD until the 7th century. Saint Domnius is now buried there, from whom the cathedral takes its name. 

The bell tower was built in the 12th century, but didn’t reach its full height of 57 metres until 3 centuries later, showing the evolution of the palace over the centuries and the ways in which it was adapted for the political and religious landscape of its contemporaries. 

Golden Gate 

The Golden Gate is one of the many gates of Diocletian’s Palace (there’s also a Bronze Gate, a Silver Gate and an Iron Gate). The outside part of the gate was a portcullis, raised and lowered by guards in the upper corridor of the wall. The second gate inside created a gatehouse defence structure, flanked by two octagonal towers for defence too. 

You might notice two faces above the entrance of the Golden Gate, called the Felicitas Saeculi. This symbol combines the head of a bull and a human face, representing happiness and prosperity under Emperor Diocletian’s rule.

An 8 metre tall statue of Gregory of Nin (read about the myth of his big toe here…), a 10th century Croatian bishop, stands in front of the gate as a symbol of Croatian language and culture. 

Overall thoughts

I visited Diocletian’s Palace in mid August, at the height of the tourist season and on one of the hottest days of the year. I got there at around 4pm and it was very busy, so be prepared for crowds if you’re planning on visiting during peak season. 

There were lots of little cafes, restaurants and shops throughout the palace’s grounds, from handmade jewellery shops to small souvenir shops.

I’d imagine visiting this stunning site would be enjoyable any time of year, and you’ll avoid the crowds in the shoulder seasons if you’d prefer a quieter exploration of the grounds.

I studied the Roman influences on Dalmatian political, economic and cultural landscapes for my 3rd year dissertation during my Classics BA at the University of Leeds, and briefly mentioned Diocletian’s Palace. However, having visited Croatia almost yearly since I was younger, and despite my Classics research project focusing on this region, August 2024 was actually the first time I had the opportunity to spend a day in Split and go to see Diocletian’s Palace!